In The Marsh
Made for Jimmy Dougherty
For his birthday October 3, 2007
I found a tangle of reeds a challenge to paint; therefore I used masking fluid to draw the reeds. After the mask dried, I painted the negative areas. I painted a few layers and let them dry. Next, I removed the masking and painted the positive areas.
(View info on brushes)
- Remove Masking with eraser quickly and easily.
- Now paint positive spaces.
- Finish work on all remaining spaces.
- Mail. I enclose card into its envelope and address and seal it. This is enclosed into large manila envelope, with the 8” x 10” acid- free mat and same size piece of watercolor paper. The watercolor paper will protect the watercolor (card) painting from acid products.
- Be sure to tape the outside of the manila envelope before mailing.
Watercolor paper cut to 5 ½ x 8 ½
Envelope: Invitation Envelope No. 5 ½ … 4 ¼ x 5 ½
Blank Cards: Strathmore Watercolor Card package with envelopes.
French Ultramarine Blue
(Red) Alizerian Crimson
# ¼” Lettering (Plaid)
# 11 Round
# 4 Round
# 50 / 0
Small Round Scrubber (Use this only when necessary to gently remove unwanted paint from the paper.)
- Art Masking Fluid (colorless) Winsor & Newton
- Nib & Penholder OR Bamboo “Pen” to use with Masking Fluid. When finished using this tool, you must submerge it in water to remove masking fluid for cleaning.
- #2 Pencil
Drawing and Masking
Watercolor paper (I use Arches brand) 5 X 10 folded in half.
Prepackaged watercolor Cards by Strathmore, which includes envelopes (AC Moore or Craft Store)
I have used a Gouache (Permanent White), for ocean splash and waves at times, or petals of the daisy. My materials are Acid Free.
For this project, I bought a package of Watercolor Cards by Strathmore at the Craft Store. These are 140lb. watercolor paper with envelopes. The blank cards measure 5” x 6 7/8” and the envelopes are 5 ¼” x 71/4”. I like this package very much.
At times I tape the blank card to a “field board” and put that on my table easel.
The tape will create a boarder around the edge with this method, which I’m not crazy about.
Generally, I simply tape between the front and back of the card to the board, and then a two sided tape or rolled tape under the front edges, to the board. Or… Use tape to separate the front of the card from the back of card, using masking tape to create a clean edge between paper and painting.
Otherwise, I will not tape the card. I will paint flat on a table in order to paint to the edge. This can be a bit of a problem because watercolor paper tends to curl a bit when wet. I have at times used a hair-dryer to prevent a curling incident.
I bought Vellum, (laser/white) at Staples. The size is 8 ½ x 11 for my computer to print my greeting. I folded a small 5/16’ piece down with a bone folder, and then glued it to the card. I run my finger down the glued strip to make the glue even and thin.
When the painting is complete, I might cut a mat, and foam-core for a backing, to enclose with the completed painting. I wrap these in brown paper which leaves the card in its envelope, signed and addressed, separate. I enclose these together in a brown envelope for mailing. The recipient will frame their card-painting, which is now a painting gift.
Mostly, I will enclose only the mat and a same size sheet of watercolor paper for the back of the small painting if I’ve used Arches watercolor paper because it is acid free.
They will buy their own frame which needs glass. Size: 8 ½ x 10. Usually, a small frame will use its own frame backing and not need the Foam Core.
They will tape the entire card on to the back of the mat with a Paper Tape from the Pharmacy. One inch Johnson & Johnson in the First Aid section.
Mat, Foam-Core/ Watercolor paper sheet and Frame are all size: 8” x 10”
Mat opening: 4 12/16” x 6 9/16”
We will need to soften many hard edges. I do that by first cleaning the paint from my brush. Now use the damp brush on hard edges in a gentle swirling action. It is important to gently soften and smooth edges.
I often use a hair-dryer to dry the paint before I continue. I don’t always want paint to run and blend into each other, or to cause a Bloom which can’t be corrected.
Watercolor usually needs a couple coats to give depth and richness.
And lastly…. Always keep your water and palette clean!
Draw reeds with Masking Fluid in thin strokes. If drops appear, blot with paper towel carefully. Let totally dry.
Once mask is dry (overnight perhaps), start painting everything. Let paint dry and put on another coat or two, drying each.
The boat is an extremely important part of this painting, pay close attention to all areas.
There is a rock to deal with and the excess water “pond” which needs to be painted carefully. The things that float on the water can be painted later… or now.
When all areas are painted to your satisfaction and dry, you can use an eraser to remove the rubber mask. This will reveal the white, unpainted, areas.
Now to paint the reeds slowly and with great attention, with a thin brush. Remember that some reeds are dead, while others are more alive.
Sometimes … “less is more” can apply in this painting. Be careful to not make the painting too dark or over loaded with the reeds.
Give yourself a day or two to let the painting totally dry, then look it over and make any changes you might find necessary for your comfort.
At this stage, I attach the printed text with glue.
This free lesson provided by Mary Churchill